Diff building.

I'm often asked questions about how I build my 1/8 diffs.  Is it important to grease the outdrive, O-rings, and ring gear?  How much grease should you use?  How much fluid should I put into the diff?  Hopefully this blog entry will help answer any questions you have about building diffs for your 8ight 3.0.  You can use the same method to build diffs on your SCTE 2.0, 8ight T 2.0 and 8ight E 2.0. 

It's always good to make sure all the parts are clean along with your work surface.  It's very important to grease the outdrive shaft, O-rings, ring gear, and the diff housing.  The grease will make the diffs operate smooth and be consistent on long runs.  If you don't grease these parts the silicone fluid can get between the outdrive and the ring gear and cause the two parts to seize or become notchy. 

You don't need too much grease, but it's better to have a little too much than not enough. 

Once you have the outdrive installed into the ring gear and diff housing you can install the gears.  I    like to tap on the cross pins to make sure they are pressed all the way into the diff housing. 

Next step is to fill the diff housing with silicone fluid.   

I fill the diff until the fluid completely covers the gears and cross pins. Then let the diff sit for a few minutes to let any air bubbles out of the oil. On the Team Losi Racing 8ight 3.0 I use 5,000 in the front, 7,000 in the center, and 3,000 in the rear. If the track is low grip, I switch to 5,000 in the center and 2,000 in the rear.

Next step is to drop the final gear into the diff housing

As you can see, there is too much fluid in the diff housing.  Make sure the gears are properly aligned. Then use your finger by pressing down firmly to wipe off the excess oil.

Here's how it should look after you wipe off the excess fluid.

Now you can attached the ring gear and install the diff.  I hope this helps!
Adam

8IGHT 3.0 Manual and Setup Sheet now online

We have just posted the 8IGHT 3.0 instruction manual, exploded views and blank setup sheet online.

8IGHT 3.0 Manual

8IGHT 3.0 Exploded View and Parts List

 8IGHT 3.0 Setup Sheet

TLR Twist Lock Glow Igniter

Hello TLR Drivers,

New from Team Losi Racing is the Twist Lock Glow Igniter.  This is a twist to lock igniter that is light and convenient to work in the pits and fire your engine up every time.  This was tested by Adam Drake and Dakotah Phend and is their igniter of choice.  

The Twist Lock Glow Igniter either comes individually, or in a combo with a wall charger.  See the images below for part numbers and pricing.

TLR70000 - Twist Lock Glow Igniter
$14.99

TLR70001 - Twist Lock Glow Igniter
$19.99

They are now available and shipping!

Race on!
Frank Root

Team Losi Racing 8IGHT 3.0 & TEN SCTE 2.0 Setup Tips

We are finally returning to our roots and bringing back the popular tuning tips with our latest releases. Unfortunately they are not in the manuals like they used to be, however they are now found online. You can now find the Team Losi Racing setup tips for the 8IGHT 3.0 and the TEN SCTE 2.0 here and also on each respective vehicle product page under the "Set-Up Sheet" section (8IGHT 3.0 Setup Section). We hope you find these tuning tips helpful dialing in your Team Losi Racing vehicle.

Team Losi Racing 8IGHT 3.0 Tuning Tips

Team Losi Racing TEN SCTE 2.0 Tuning Tips

SCTE 2.0 Build Tips

We are glad to introduce the SCTE 2.0 to the market.  We feel this vehicle will push this class to the next level of racing in and outdoors for 4WD racing short course truck.  We have put together some build tips here to aid those of you that have yet to put one of the together.  We have tried to tie them to steps in the manual as well for ease of use.

Servo Saver Setting(A-2) – Upon building your servo saver, we often tighten ours all the way and then back it off 3/4 of a turn.  Please take special note of the use of thread lock here so it stays where it's set.

Torque Rods (A-5, D-14) – Always be sure to thread the long setscrew all the way into the plastic side first as this will support the plastic rod end from breaking from hard crashes.  Then place a little thread lock on the side going into the metal tube and just snug it against the metal tube.

Building Shocks (E-1) – We include both types of o-rings for the top caps that have been used over the past couple of years as some prefer one to the other.  There are the thinner larger ones and the thicker slightly smaller diameter ones.  I prefer the thinner larger ones and the way these are used is to slightly stretch them over the top threads and place them against the base that the top cap threads down onto.  This way, its always there, seals great, and you don’t have to mess with it being in the shock cap.  The other o-ring which is the larger one you can place inside the shock cap is not needed if using this method.

Bottom Shock Cap Assembly (E-1) – Some of you may experience some difficulty in getting the bottom plastic cap on the base of the shock that holds the o-ring and other guide in place.  There was some shrinkage that occurred during processing which has now been taken care of but we have been told some of the kits had the slightly tighter bottom caps.  You can get these on using the following method or if yours are too tight, you can contact customer support and they can get you some new ones out.  To get them on, thread the shock top onto the bottom all the way, place the shock tool on the eyelet of the top cap, grab the bottom cap with pliers and twist the bottom cap in place as shown in the picture below.  Then take the top cap off using the other shock tool as well and build as normal.

Side-Guards (F-1) – When installing the side-guards onto the chassis, at first glance, they look the same, however they are different.  One side holds the battery in place and one side allows room for the motor.  If you look along the inner edge of the guards, you will notice one has a high spot and the other is low the entire way.  The one with the high spot is for holding the battery and is the left guard and the other lower one is the right guard.

Battery Spacing – This is certainly a personal preference or a setup type adjustment, but here are some starting recommended positions.  A lot of it is based on the surface and the motor you run on.  For those of you running dirt off-road tracks, we recommend using the middle position if using a 540 length motor and the forward position if using a 550 length motor.  If running on carpet or Astro-Turf, it is one position back from each of those based on the motor size.

ESC Wire Lead Tip – Just wanted to point out that with the spacing and the pocketing we did, the ESC lead will fit under the servo and straight up to the receiver, rather than have to be routed around it.

Receiver and Transponder location – The servo mount has a flat face on the outside of the mount, this is a great location for both your receiver and personal transponder.  We have found that the personal transponders actually work better mounted up here rather than flat on the chassis.

SCTE 2.0 Setup Tips – Also, for those that haven’t read or downloaded a copy of this quick setup guide for the SCTE 2.0, please take a look at it here on the Team Losi Racing web page:

http://www.tlracing.com/ProdInfo/Files/TLR03000_Tuning_Tips.pdf

Race On!

Ryan Dunford

TLR 8ight 3.0 Testing 

Yesterday we headed out to the track again this week for some more 8ight 3.0 testing before leaving for Nitro Challenge next week. We have been extremely happy with the set up we have come up with the last couple of weeks. We wanted to confirm our set up by hitting as many tracks as we can. We've found the set up to be very consistent from track to track with very little changes. The whole team has been working extremely hard the last few weeks working close and communicating daily. Billy Fischer and Dakotah Phend have been very involved with Adam Drake and Mike Truhe with all the set up changes. They have also been very happy with the current set up, saying there confidence is at an all time high and very much looking forward to The Dirt Nitro Challenge.  

The 8ight 3.0 has been a huge improvement with the bump handling and the ever better jump handling over the 2.0. We have also found the 3.0 to have a much better feel on the wheel,  meaning you can go faster and feel more comfortable as the steering is much smoother then the 2.0. We look to see everyone next week in AZ for the Dirt Nitro Challenge. 

Aluminum Driveshafts and TLR Shock Oil

Hello TLR Drivers,

We have few exciting new option/accessory parts for TLR that have been announced today.  To help gain the extra advantage in stock racing, we have developed Aluminum Driveshaft sets for the 22 line of vehicles: 22, 22T and 22SCT.  This helps to reduce the weight of your 22 vehicle in the most critical area, rotating mass.  You can purchase the complete driveshaft set with the axles, couplers, pins, set screws, thread lock and black grease, or you can purchase just the CVA bones.  The part numbers and prices are below each of the images below:

TLR332002 - Driveshaft Set, Aluminum, Complete, 22
$39.99

TLR332005 - Driveshaft Set, Aluminum: 22
$21.99

TLR332003 - Driveshaft  Set Aluminum, Complete, 22T
$44.99

TLR332006 - Driveshaft Set, Aluminum: 22T
$24.99

TLR332004 - Driveshaft Set, Aluminum, Complete, 22SCT
$44.99

TLR332007 - Driveshaft Set, Aluminum: 22SCT
$24.99

We also have the same great Losi Certified Shock Oil move over to the Team Losi Racing (TLR) brand and packaging.  The oil has not changed, just the part numbers and packaging.  See the list of part numbers below:

TLR74001 - Silicone Shock Oil, 17.5 wt., 2oz.

TLR74002 - Silicone Shock Oil, 20 wt., 2oz.

TLR74003 - Silicone Shock Oil, 22.5 wt., 2oz.

TLR74004 - Silicone Shock Oil, 25.5 wt., 2oz.

TLR74005 - Silicone Shock Oil, 27.5 wt., 2oz.

TLR74006 - Silicone Shock Oil, 30 wt., 2oz.

TLR74007 - Silicone Shock Oil, 32.5 wt., 2oz.

TLR74008 - Silicone Shock Oil, 35 wt., 2oz.

TLR74009 - Silicone Shock Oil, 37.5 wt., 2oz.

TLR74010 - Silicone Shock Oil, 40 wt., 2oz.

TLR74011 - Silicone Shock Oil, 42.5 wt., 2oz.

TLR74012 - Silicone Shock Oil, 45 wt., 2oz.

TLR74013 - Silicone Shock Oil, 50 wt., 2oz.

TLR74014 - Silicone Shock Oil, 60 wt., 2oz.

TLR74015 - Silicone Shock Oil, 70 wt., 2oz.

TLR74016 - Silicone Shock Oil, 80 wt., 2oz.

TLR74017 - Silicone Shock Oil, 90 wt., 2oz.

TLR74018 - Silicone Shock Oil, 100 wt., 2oz.

TLR74019 - Shock Oil 6 Pack, 17.5, 22.5, 27.5, 32.5, 37.5, 42.5, 2oz.

TLR74020 - Shock Oil 6 Pack, 20, 25, 30, 35, 40, 45, 2oz.

TLR74021 - Shock Oil 6 Pack, 50, 60, 70, 80, 90, 100, 2oz.

TLR74005 - Silicone Shock Oil, 27.5wt, 2oz.
$3.99

We hope you enjoy the new product!

Race On!

Frank