We are
glad to introduce the SCTE 2.0 to the market.
We feel this vehicle will push this class to the next level of racing in
and outdoors for 4WD racing short course truck. We have put together some build tips here to aid those of you that have yet to put one of the together. We have tried to tie them to steps in the
manual as well for ease of use.
Servo Saver Setting(A-2) – Upon building your servo saver,
we often tighten ours all the way and then back it off 3/4 of a turn. Please take special note of the use of thread
lock here so it stays where it's set.
Torque Rods (A-5, D-14) – Always be sure to thread the long
setscrew all the way into the plastic side first as this will support the
plastic rod end from breaking from hard crashes. Then place a little thread lock on the side
going into the metal tube and just snug it against the metal tube.
Building Shocks (E-1) – We include both types of o-rings for
the top caps that have been used over the past couple of years as some prefer
one to the other. There are the thinner
larger ones and the thicker slightly smaller diameter ones. I prefer the thinner larger ones and the way
these are used is to slightly stretch them over the top threads and place them
against the base that the top cap threads down onto. This way, its always there, seals great, and
you don’t have to mess with it being in the shock cap. The other o-ring which is the larger one you
can place inside the shock cap is not needed if using this method.
Bottom Shock Cap Assembly (E-1) – Some of you may
experience some difficulty in getting the bottom plastic cap on the base of the
shock that holds the o-ring and other guide in place. There was some shrinkage that occurred during
processing which has now been taken care of but we have been told some of the
kits had the slightly tighter bottom caps.
You can get these on using the following method or if yours are too
tight, you can contact customer support and they can get you some new ones
out. To get them on, thread the shock
top onto the bottom all the way, place the shock tool on the eyelet of the top
cap, grab the bottom cap with pliers and twist the bottom cap in place as shown
in the picture below. Then take the top
cap off using the other shock tool as well and build as normal.
Side-Guards (F-1) – When installing the side-guards onto the
chassis, at first glance, they look the same, however they are different. One side holds the battery in place and one
side allows room for the motor. If you
look along the inner edge of the guards, you will notice one has a high spot
and the other is low the entire way. The
one with the high spot is for holding the battery and is the left guard and the
other lower one is the right guard.
Battery Spacing – This is certainly a personal preference or
a setup type adjustment, but here are some starting recommended positions. A lot of it is based on the surface and the
motor you run on. For those of you
running dirt off-road tracks, we recommend using the middle position if
using a 540 length motor and the forward position if using a 550 length
motor. If running on carpet or Astro-Turf, it is one
position back from each of those based on the motor size.
ESC Wire Lead Tip – Just wanted to point out that with the
spacing and the pocketing we did, the ESC lead will fit under the servo and
straight up to the receiver, rather than have to be routed around it.
Receiver and Transponder location – The servo mount has a
flat face on the outside of the mount, this is a great location for both your
receiver and personal transponder. We have found
that the personal transponders actually work better mounted up here rather than flat on
the chassis.
SCTE 2.0 Setup Tips – Also, for those that haven’t
read or downloaded a copy of this quick setup guide for the SCTE 2.0, please
take a look at it here on the Team Losi Racing web page:
Race On!
Ryan Dunford
