8 2.0 EU body (LOSA8093) back in stock!

We just brought back the Team Losi Racing 8IGHT 2.0 EU Body back into stock after a lot of requests. This 1/8 nitro body offers a traditional cab design with a sleek fin running down the middle of the cab. Drivers have stated that it has a better balance of steering and traction when using this body. Below is a picture of Reno Savoya's 8IGHT 4.0 with the 8 2.0 EU body.

Photo: Compliments of Neobuggy.net.

22 3.0 & 4.0 CVA's

Hello everyone,

This week I would like to talk about the very minimal, but very important 1mm axle spacer on our TLR 22 line of vehicles. This spacer for me has been a very beneficial tuning option in all types of track conditions. We asked TLR driver, JP Richards to give us his thoughts on the spacer and its use; “I think it gives the car more drive/forward grip out of the corner. It also reduces the roll in the corners as it seems to bind the drivetrain up. It’s something I always run on low to medium bite tracks. The higher the bite, the more it will bind the car up and kill corner speed.” Thanks for the insight on this tuning option and good luck at this week’s Chi-Town Shootout.

JR

#22empire

22 3.0: JP Richards Setup Changes at Motorama

Hey Everyone,

In this post I'm gonna talk about some of the setup changes I made to my TLR 22 3.0 buggy and TLR 22T 3.0 truck while at Motorama to accommodate the slightly looser track conditions.

In the case of Motorama this past weekend, I was told we were going to be running an outdoor pin style tire. So I made sure my stand up transmission was in both of my 3.0 vehicles. I went with my normal stand up setup on both cars. After my first practice runs, I decided the first change needed was to lighten the shock oil up in the car front and rear to get the car to settle in the track more and go through the bumps better. Lighter oil will help the car transfer weight to the rear of the car a little quicker and increase the rebound speeds to help get through bumps better. In my buggy I went from 35 front and 30 rear, to 32.5 front 27.5 rear and my truck I went from 35 to 32.5 in the front and 27.5 to 25 in the rear. This gave me that extra weight transfer needed for the car to produce more overall traction.

I also increased the rear toe-in on both cars from 3.0 degrees to 3.5 degrees to get a little more overall traction out of the cars.

Attached are both of my TQ and Winning setups from this past weekend.

JP Richards
#22empire

Motorama

Hello everyone,

Well we’re all back from Motorama and trying to get back in the swing of things. Motorama was a great event for TLR, coming home with two wins with JP Richards(TLR 22 3.0 and 22T 3.0), one win Jonathan Noon (TLR 22 3.0SR) on the 1/10^th scale side of the program and with podium finish’s by Anthony Mazzara (TLR 8ight E 4.0) and Spencer Hechert (TLR 8ight E 4.0)  on the 1/8^th side. I asked Spencer Hechert to share a change that he did to his TLR 8ight E 4.0 while at this event and what he felt the change did for his driving. Spencer followed a setup from last year’s event which had the front inner hinge pin with a 0 pill in the front and rear (this gives the car less front kick up), Spencer changed this to 1 up and 1 down and had this to say about the outcome. SH “It calmed the car down and it made it much easier to drive. It also handled the bumps better” Thanks Spencer great job and good luck in your future racing!

JR

#8realm

#22empire

Brass Rear Pivot - TLR334035

Hello everyone,

This week I’d like to go over some TLR 22 3.0 notes I took at the Jconcepts SuperCup at Lake Park RC two weeks ago. Let me first start by giving everyone a little insight on Lake Park’s surface:  during morning practices and first qualifying round there was lower grip with some dust. Moving into the second qualifying, the grip had come up a bit, but still had some dusty areas.  Round one I started 1.4x3 shock pistons with 30 wt. in the rear of 22 3.0 and I really felt like I could use a little more overall forward grip. So, I changed my rear shock package for round two and I went with 1.7x2 with 32 wt. and added TLR’s brass weight, hinge pin brace, lrc +30G (TLR334035). This shock change and added weight gave me the forward grip I was looking for. I look forward to taking these changes with me as I make my way to Motorama and a different surface then we’ve had in previous years. If you’re attending this year’s Motorama event, feel free to stop into the TLR team pit to say “Hi” and get any questions you might have answered.

JR

#22empire

1/8 Electric Clutch - TLR342003

Hello everyone,

Today we go back to the 1/8^th scale side of TLR and our E-buggy and E-truggy programs and we talk about TLR’s Electric Clutch System (TLR342003) for both TLR 8E buggies and 8T truggies. There are a lot of misconceptions about an E clutch because a majority think it works like a nitro clutch when it actually works more like a 1/10^th scale slipper. The slip that the E clutch provides allows improved throttle modulation on bumpy tracks, as it will slip under a heavy or abrupt load allowing the vehicle to remain stable. In addition, a misconception is braking, as the preloaded clutch shoes are always engaged and in contact with the clutch bell, which makes braking instant without the need for mechanical braking.

Starting E-clutch setups;

Buggy: Two composite shoes with Green springs/Two Aluminum shoes with Gold springs

Truggy: Four Aluminum shoes with four Gold springs

JR

#8realm

22 Rear Hub

Hello everyone,

This week we’re back with the 1/10^th side of TLR and we are talking rear hub carriers. With the introduction of TLR’s new Genll hub (TLR234075), people have had some questions and concerns with this new part.

 Question #1: “With the added aluminum top piece on the hub, does this change my bull stud height?” Answer is no; take a look at the picture below that shows a side-by-side view of a Genl hub and a Genll both are the same height. 

 Question #2: “Is the added aluminum top piece threaded?” Answer is no, and with this comes some info. Previously an 8mm (TLR6024) length ball stud was all that was required for the Genl hubs with the standard 2mm washer; now with the Genll hubs a 10mm (TLR6023) length ball stud is required with the standard 2mm washer. This is needed because the first 2mm of the Genll hubs are not threaded and extra thread support is needed. Also to keep in mind if using 0 or 1mm spacers on the Genll hub, you will need to go back to the 8mm as the 10mm will be too long for these circumstances.

JR

#22empire