TLR offers two sets of shock o-rings for the 22. There are three set-ups you can use with these two sets of shock o-rings.
OPTION 2
Option 2 is the black and gray o-ring setup and it's what most racers prefer. Here we are using one low friction black o-ring (TLR5074) and one standard gray o-ring (TLR5093). This increases the performance of your shock from the standard kit set-up by allowing the shock to have less o-ring stiction. You will notice the shock shaft stiction will be cut in half. This will help the car develop more grip and handle better through the bumps. You will have a small amount of oil leaking from the shock from time to time but this will stop once the shock o-rings swell from the silicone oil. When building your shocks with this option always put the gray o-ring in last to give you the best seal.
OPTION 3
SHOCK BUILDING TIPS
Now we are going to go over a couple of tips and things to look for when assembling your shocks together. This will assure that your shocks are at the highest performance level at all times.
TIP 1
Greasing the shock o-rings
TIP 2
Removing the plastic flashing off the shock piston
TIP 3
Cutting out the bladders
We have found that the shocks perform better as an emulsion shock over the stock bladder compensated shock. We have found that the emulsion shock lands better, has a better balance, and increased grip. There are two easy ways to turn your stock bladder compensated shocks into emulsion shocks.
On the right is Option 2, a standard shock bladder where the center has been cut out with a pair of scissors. By installing option 1 or 2 this will turn your bladder compensator shock into an emulsion shock. After doing this tip you will need to follow the directions to properly bleed an emulsion shock.
TIP 4
Bleeding an emulsion shock
Bleeding an emulsion shock is the last and most important step of building your shocks. You want to make sure that all four of the shocks are bled the same. Inconsistent shock pressures will hurt the track performance. Here is the best way we have found to assure all four shocks are bled the same.
After the shocks have sat for a couple of minutes pull the shock shaft completely down. Make sure the o-ring or cut bladder is installed into the shock cap and screw the shock cap onto the shock body. Only screw the shock cap on about ¾ of the way leaving about two threads showing.
Shock Maintenance
Now that you have a set of performance shocks here is how the TLR team maintains their shocks.
Tip One:
The team likes to use the shock cap bottom that holds in the o-ring as an adjustment tool. When new o-rings are installed tighten the bottom shock cap all the way. As you run your car the o-rings will swell over time. After the 2nd day of running on new o-rings, loosen the shock cap bottom ¼ turn. This will relieve the pressure on the o-rings and decrease the stiction of your shock. The next time at the track loosen the bottom shock cap another 1/4 turn. This will put you at ½ turn out on the bottom cap. This is the maximum you want to loosen the shock cap bottom. Generally the top drivers run their shocks o-rings for three days before replacing them with new o-rings.
Tip Two:
When changing the oil in your shocks add a small amount of Losi shock o-ring grease to the shock shaft. When adding this grease make sure to work the grease into the o-rings by moving the shaft in and out quickly. Then wipe off the excess grease so dirt won't stick to your shocks. This will help keep the friction low and performance high.
Tip Three:
This is an important step that is over looked by most. Dirt is the worst thing for your shock o-rings and the shock shafts. Each time you come off the track clean your shocks with a soft brush. Make sure there is no dirt packed into the shock cup. Dirt that compacts into the shock cup allows the dirt to be forced into the shock cap bottom, under full compression, causing the o-rings to get dirty and abrasive. Cleaning your shocks each run with a soft brush will help your shocks stay better much longer and keep the performance high at all times.