Friday, July 21, 2017

Gear diff maintenance and rebuilding

Hello everyone,

This week I would like to cover the next question that came up on my recent post on the #22empire and that’s 1/10th scale gear diff maintenance and rebuilding. In the picture below, I’m rebuilding my gear diff and I’ll give a description for some key items when rebuilding a gear diff. A) Disassemble and clean all parts thoroughly with motor spray (do not clean o-rings with motor spray). B & C) Show all parts after cleaning. D) Reapply new high-pressure black grease and the O-rings followed by the flat washer on both sides of the diff. E) Reapply threadlock to the outdrive setscrew. F) Refill your gear diff with your diff fluid of choice. G) Tighten the four outer case screws in a cross pattern. This will give you a nice new freshly rebuilt gear diff ready for racing.

Wednesday, July 12, 2017

Diff maintenance and rebuilding

Hello everyone,

This week I would like to cover the next question that came up on my recent post on the #22empire and that’s 1/10th scale diff maintenance and rebuilding. In the picture below I’m rebuilding my diff for this weekend’s Hot Rod Shootout race at Hot Rod Hobbies and I’ll give a description for some key items when rebuilding a diff. This diff has about three large race events and some club racing events on it and you can feel it’s a little gritty. Picture A1 and A2 shows “flipping” the drive rings and trust washer for a new surface area; this is key because not doing this will result in having the same gritty feel you're trying to get rid of in the first place. Picture B shows cleaning of the internal parts of the diff (I.E. outdrives, rings, trust and diff balls). Picture C shows reassembly of the diff with new silicone grease. Picture D shows reassembly of the trust washer assembly with new high-pressure black grease. This will give you a fresh new diff ready for racing.

Wednesday, July 5, 2017


Hello everyone,

Recently I asked the #22empire for some feedback on what they would like to see covered here on the Team Losi Racing blog. I received multiple questions and I will cover them all in the next couple of weeks. Out of those questions, a majority would like some input on LRC vs. HCR and which conditions work best for each. LRC lowers the inner hinge pin which equals more roll for added grip and a softer suspension feel on the track. HRC raises the inner hinge pin which equals to less roll for less grip and a stiffer suspension feel on the track. Overall I wish this was a cut and dry question but it’s really a decision setting for which track you’re on and how you like the feel. I’ve raced on tracks where HRC should be the best and felt better racing with LRC. Here are some key points I associate when I need to decide on LRC or HRC.
LRC = if the track is lower grip/bumpy
HRC = if the track is super high grip/smooth (like a condition when front and rear sway bars are needed)

JR #22emire

Thursday, June 29, 2017

Throttle linkage and dead band

Hello everyone,

Well we’re back from the Roar Fuel Nationals and ready for this week’s blog post. First off, I want to give a shout out to thank Frank Root for covering last week’s blog post as I was on the road at the nationals. This week I would like to give everyone a little insight on what I do with my TLR 8IGHT 4.0 and TLR 8IGHT T 4.0 throttle linkage and why the dead band is needed. This is mostly needed so the carburetor stays shut under chassis flex. Picture one shows no dead band at all and the carburetor can still open under chassis flex. Picture two shows 1mm of dead band which can still leave the carburetor open under chassis flex. Picture three shows 2mm’s of dead band which is what’s needed for keeping the carburetor closed under chassis flex.

Tuesday, June 20, 2017

22T 3.0 Laydown?

Since its release in February, the 22T 3.0 has taken quite a few victories in hands of the TLR Race Team and Consumers alike, especially JP Richards.  One of the more popular setup options the last several months that has increased the maximum performance is converting the kit 3-gear standup transmission to a 3-gear laydown transmission.  This moves the motor forward quite a bit, which reduces wheelies, increases stability and side bite, and improves landing.

JP has mentioned that the truck was really good from kit setup, but the balance and speed increased noticeably for him when switching to laydown.  Given this feedback, we release a new part, TLR338006.  This is the machined laydown kit we used for the 22 3.0, but without the body or chassis to help reduce the cost.  Check out the conversion below:

For a good starting setup, I would suggest JP's setup from the JC Nationals hosted by SMAC Trac.  Although he was running stand up at that event, he has not changed his setup to accommodate from the mid motor configuration.

Race On!

Wednesday, June 14, 2017

Servo Mount, Chassis Brace servo options

Hello everyone,

This week I would like to talk about TLR’s option part Servo Mount, Chassis Brace (TLR331019) for your TLR 22 4.0, 22 3.0, 22 3.0 SR, and 22T 3.0. This option part allows the customer to run his or her servo either in the stock forward position or move the servo back in the car 4mm’s. Moving the servo to the optional back location requires some trimming of different components.

1. Trimming of TLR231065 Mud Guard in locations indicated in picture below.
2.Relocated servo horn ball stud to the front of the servo horn see picture below.
 3.Trimming of TLR1052 Front Bulkhead in location indicated in picture below.
                                                                         Before trimming
                                                                    After trimming


Wednesday, June 7, 2017

8IGHT 4.0 E clutch/diff shimming

Hello everyone,

This week, I would like to talk about the E clutch and aligning the clutch bell with the center diff better. During this past weekend's club racing in Florida, I noticed this to be an issue with a racer and I would like to share with everyone what I do to help with this issue. The 8IGHT E 4.0 center diff comes with two aluminum shims on each side of the center diff behind each diff bearings (TLR242008). Before building the center diff I don’t add the aluminum shim to the diff gear side and I add rear diff shims (LOSB3951) to the other side (the none gear side) of the diff. This moves the diff slightly more forward giving you better gear to gear alignment. This week the team is in Cullman, Alabama for AMS 8.0. Be sure to check out our FaceBook and Instagram for videos and photos from this weekend’s event.

JR #8realm