22 2.0 Cab Forward Body - TLR330000

Hello Racers,

Last Tuesday (12/10/2013) we started shipping the 22 2.0 Cab Forward Body.  Our core team drivers like Dustin Evans and Dakotah Phend have been running prototype samples of this body since just before the 2013 ROAR Nationals.  During testing, the team has found the body to have improved low speed steering and better high speed stability - the best of both worlds.  Dakotah did use the prototype Cab Forward Body to win the 2013 ROAR Nationals in 2wd Buggy Modified, so the results are proving how good the body performs!

Just like the 22 and 22 2.0 kit bodies, the body will work for both mid and rear motor configurations.  The body is pre-cut, and only needs a minor trim for the designed configuration.  The body will also fit both the 22 and 22 2.0 buggies.

To maximize the styling and performance of the 22 2.0 Cab Forward Body, the body does fit closely around the electronics and battery within 22 2.0 buggy.  The is abundant room when running a shorty or standard sized LiPo battery, but when running the saddle pack batteries in mid motor configuration, the room is snug.  We have a few suggestions to help make the fit easier for you.

1.  Use a low profile bullet plug type connector.
2.  Solder the wires into the bullet plugs horizontally (at 90 degrees to the bullet) rather than vertically.  This applies to both the power wires and the jumper wire.  The the image below.
3.  If you see a spot where the battery and/or plugs get close to the body, be sure to put some Shoe Goo (DYN8000) thinly on the body.  This will protect the paint.  Make sure the paint on the body is well dried before applying the Shoe Goo.

With these tips, the body will fit great for you, last a long time, and help to put you on top of the podium!  We hope you enjoy the Cab Forward Body as much as we do!

Race On!
Frank

TLR 5IVE-T Tuning Kit

Check out our new TLR 5IVE-T Tuning Kit

http://youtu.be/oJDbOsRF1OU

Everything you need to tune your 5IVE-T® chassis for the next level of performance is in this box. It includes multiple sway bar sets, hard anodized shock kits, titanium turnbuckles and more.

Hard anodized Front and Rear Aluminum Shock Body Sets

These big-bore, hard anodized shock bodies are more durable and provide smoother shock action.

 

TiCN Front and Rear Shock Shaft Sets

The TiCN coating on these heavy-duty shafts lengthen shock life and make the suspension feel incredibly smooth.

Hard anodized Aluminum Shock Caps

These tough, CNC machined shock caps are laser-etched with the TLR logo.

Front and Rear Red Shock Springs

Front springs with a 12.9 lb rate and rear springs with a 9.3 lb rate are included.

 

Titanium Shock Standoffs and Turnbuckles

Adding strength to the chassis of a 38 pound truck without adding weight is critical. These titanium parts strengthen key suspension components while reducing weight at the same time.

Aluminum Bearing Inserts

Aluminum bearing inserts reduce weight without sacrificing strength.

Aluminum Servo Saver Arm

This arm is stiffer than stock and won’t strip under heavy loads. It adds a touch of class too.

Hard Anodized Front and Rear Stub Axles

By reducing weight at the wheel, these stub axles improve suspension response on rugged terrain.

Hard Anodized Pinion Coupler

The hard anodized pinion couplers work with the lightened outdrives to reduce the overall rotating mass of the front and rear differentials. It all adds up to even quicker acceleration as well as a stronger drivetrain.

TiCN Inner and Outer Hinge Pins

The TiCN coating on the inner and outer hinge pins makes them incredibly durable. It also reduces friction, so the suspension moves more freely around the pins.

Exclusive Pull Start and Air Pre-Filter Covers

A set of blue covers sporting the 5IVE-T logo are included for the pull start and air pre-filter. They are exclusive to the tuning kit and will not be available separately.

 

3.0mm and 4.0mm Sway Bar Sets

Two different sets of front and rear sway bars give you a multitude of tuning options.

 

http://youtu.be/oJDbOsRF1OU

A few new setups posted for the Team Losi Racing 22 2.0

A lot of the team have been running quite a bit and have came up with quite a few setups for the TLR 22 2.0. Check them out as well as the link at the bottom for other setup sheets.

The first setup sheet is from Ruffy Rios in Florida and is a great stock motor setup for the TLR 22 2.0

Here is Dustin's Evans mid-motor setup from the recent J-Concepts Indoor Nationals.

For all the racers preparing to head indoors and race on medium to high grip carpet here is a great setup sheet from TLR driver Otto Ausfelt

You can find these setup sheets and more at the following link: TLR 22 2.0 Setup Sheets

Adam Drake talks about setting steering EPA.

Adam Drake talks about setting steering EPA in the following video.
http://youtu.be/b6poRXyBvvs

Adam Drake talks about setting throttle high point (EPA).

Adam Drake show us how he sets his throttle high point in this short video.
http://youtu.be/ajEfr-kuFfM

Adam Drake talks about setting the brake bias on his TLR 8ight 3.0

Checkout this short video from TLR's Adam Drake.

http://youtu.be/Wsd8o0Am_qc

Bleeding your TLR 8ight 3.0 shocks.

Checkout this short video of TLR's Adam Drake bleeding the shocks on his TLR 8ight 3.0 buggy. 
http://youtu.be/4DsD29B5DWk

TLR Off Road Grand Prix Series 2013

TLR Grand Prix Series

This Saturday, July 20th kicks off the TLR Grand Prix Series begins at CVRC. 
The TLR Grand Prix Series is a five race series that will determine CVRC’s top drivers.
Racers are encouraged to attend every round of the series, but in the event they are
unable to attend, there will be one throwout race. Trophies will be awarded to the top three in  every class, courtesy of our awesome sponsors!  The gates open at 7am (Unless otherwise noted on the CVRC calendar) and racing begins at 10am.

We look forward to seeing you at the 2013 TLR Grand Prix Series, we appreciate your
support.
For more information please visit www.cvrcraceclub.com

 

 

Low Frequency Spring Chart

Hello TLR Racers,

A TLR Racer had put together a quick spring chart for the new TLR Low Frequency Springs (TLR233012 - Front, TLR233013 - Rear).  Ruffy Rios was kind enough to share this chart on Facebook and sent it to me so I could post it to the blog as well.  Enjoy!!

Race on!
Frank

7 for 7

Yesterday we returned back to the office from the 2013 RCX Show at the Long Beach Convention Center in Long Beach. During the weekend all of us at Horizon had the opportunity to hang out with everyday customers whether they were new to the hobby or advanced drivers or pilots. Each year on Saturday evening after the show,  RC Car Action has a banquet where all of the industry people meet and socialize. This year was no different than any other year we've attended this banquet. Great food with great friends and on top of that we have the Readers Choice Awards Ceremony. The awards are for the Readers' Choice for all of the products that the reader's of RC Car Action vote for earlier in the year. Like many other years we win an award or two. But this year was a bit different. We won Readers' Choice Nitro Buggy of the year. Now one may ask, "What's different? Team Losi Racing has won this award a few times." Well let us tell you what's different. 2013 marked the 7th consecutive year that the 8IGHT buggy has won this award. This speaks volume to everyone at Horizon, Team Losi Racing, and the most important people in our industry, the customer. The customers'/readers' are the ones who vote for this prestigious award. Today, as I took the award out of it's box and placed it next to the other six awards it hit me, "WOW"! We have won SEVEN of these awards. The 8IGHT has never lost since it has come to market. The awards include 2007, 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012, and 2013. It's truly amazing that the 8IGHT buggy has been such a popular nitro buggy for such a long time and arguably during a time that 1/8th buggy class was at it's peak in the level of competition that is out there during these past 7 years. For all the races we've won and lost, the ups and downs, the racers who race for us today and those who left for greener grass, the developers we have and to those who have left us to go onto bigger and better things, one thing remains consistent, the Team Losi Racing 8IGHT Buggy is still the most popular and highly sought after Nitro buggy in the 1/8th Nitro Buggy racing market. We would like to personally thank all of the readers who voted for the 8IGHT buggy this year. Thank you! We would like to also give special thanks to all of the people who've been involved in the constant development, marketing, and performance of this very special racing buggy. We would love to name all of you but the list is to long. Thank you to all! I can only hope that next year we can brag yet once again about number 8IGHT!

Low Frequency Springs for the 22 Buggy

Hello TLR Drivers,

We are really excited to bring you  new performance upgrade parts for the 22 platform: 

Front Spring Set, Low Frequency (4 pair): 22/T/SCT 
Rear Spring Set, Low Frequency (5 pair): 22/T/SCT 

These springs have been tested for a few month by our race team with great success. The springs are made with much smaller increments between spring rates allowing for a finer tune on the setup. Rear springs are separated by only 0.06 lbs/in and fronts by only 0.12 lbs/in. The LF springs have a higher coil count than the traditional TLR Spring, which provides a lower frequency and a much less progressive feel. On the track, this translates to more overall grip around the track, and a less aggressive spring rebound which really helps the car settle after landing jumps. These springs are easily identifiable versus the traditional TLR springs as they have a black oxide coating which looks more like a matte finish compared to the black painted traditional TLR springs. They also have the color paint markings to identify the rate, but the coil count of the springs will also help to identify the rate even if the paint mark were to be remove. Lastly, the springs come in complete sets, so there is no need to track down several pairs.  The front spring kit comes with 4 pairs of springs ranging from 2.86-3.18 lbs/in and the rear spring kit comes with 5 pairs of springs ranging from 1.96-2.16 lbs/in. The front spring set rate range is likely only going to be ideal for the 22 buggy, but the rear spring range will work for all the 22 platform vehicle; 22, 22T, 22SCT. Below are images, links, and the spring rate information for both the front and rear sets.




TLR233012 - Front Spring Set, Low Frequency (4 pair): 22/T/SCT

Available for $19.99

http://www.tlracing.com/Products/Default.aspx?ProdID=TLR233012

TLR233012 - Springs included in order from softest to stiffest: 

Pink                        2.86 lbs./in         9.25 coils

Red                        2.96 lbs./in          9.00 coils

Orange                   3.03 lbs./in          8.75 coils

Silver                      3.18 lbs./in          8.50 coils

TLR233013 - Rear Spring Set, Low Frequency (5 pair): 22/T/SCT

Available for $24.99

http://www.tlracing.com/Products/Default.aspx?ProdID=TLR233013

Springs included in order from softest to stiffest:

Grey                      1.96 lbs./in          12.50 coils

White                    2.02 lbs./in          12.25 coils

Yellow                   2.06 lbs./in          12.00 coils

Pink                       2.11 lbs./in          11.75 coils

Red                       2.16 lbs./in          11.50 coils

I am confident these springs will take the performance of your 22 to the next level on most dirt surface, especially is they are medium to low grip.  Dustin is currently running the Red front springs and White rear springs, while JR Mitch is running the Red front springs with Yellow rear springs.  This information is just to help provide a good starting point.

Have fun with these springs and RACE ON!

Frank

Nitro engine break-in.

I get asked all the time what is the best way to break in a nitro engine. I'm not sure if it the best method, but here what I do to break-in my Nova Rossi engines. With the engine installed in buggy I pre-heat the engine using a Competition Heater. If you don't have a heater from Competition Heat you can use a heat gun or hair dryer. Heat the engine up to 170-200 degrees before starting it. After you start the engine I usually leave the heater on the head, but unplug it. If you don’t have a heater you can put a 1/10th truck insert around the head to help keep the engine warm. I’ll then set the idle and low speed needle to make sure the engine idles consistently and let the engine idle for one tank. You may want to slightly rev the engine from time to time just enough to clean out the pipe. After one tank let the engine cool. Then repeat the process 3-4 times to heat cycle the engine. You should then be ready to hit the track or street to start running the engine. When the engine is new just make sure you run the HSN rich for the first gallon.   

Lubricating the aluminum idler gear

When using the TLR Aluminum Idler Gear (TLR332009), we recommend using a small amount of grease to lubricate the gears. Doing so will decrease the wear on the mating layshaft and diff gear and this will give your transmission a longer life of smooth operation.

 

 

Make sure to clean the inside of the transmission and gears to remove any dirt and debris before installing the new idler gear.

 

 

 We recommend using TLR Hi-Pressure Black Grease (TLR77000). Spread a thin layer of grease completely around the idler gear as shown.

 

 

Install the idler gear into the transmission and rotate the diff gear a few times until the grease is evenly distributed onto all the gears. You should see just a small thin layer of grease covering the gears. Once you are satisfied, assemble the remainder of the transmission and install back into your vehicle. You're now ready to race!

Adam Drake's standard 8ight 3.0 set-up

Ronda Drake's standard 8ight 3.0 set-up

RC Buggy Ride Height with TLR's Adam Drake - VRC Magazine - Video

Do you think about your ride height?  I do!  In this video I offer tips on setting off-road ride height with my Team Losi Racing 8ight 3.0.  

http://youtu.be/Z_5bc7zye3A

Diff building.

I'm often asked questions about how I build my 1/8 diffs.  Is it important to grease the outdrive, O-rings, and ring gear?  How much grease should you use?  How much fluid should I put into the diff?  Hopefully this blog entry will help answer any questions you have about building diffs for your 8ight 3.0.  You can use the same method to build diffs on your SCTE 2.0, 8ight T 2.0 and 8ight E 2.0. 

It's always good to make sure all the parts are clean along with your work surface.  It's very important to grease the outdrive shaft, O-rings, ring gear, and the diff housing.  The grease will make the diffs operate smooth and be consistent on long runs.  If you don't grease these parts the silicone fluid can get between the outdrive and the ring gear and cause the two parts to seize or become notchy. 

You don't need too much grease, but it's better to have a little too much than not enough. 

Once you have the outdrive installed into the ring gear and diff housing you can install the gears.  I    like to tap on the cross pins to make sure they are pressed all the way into the diff housing. 

Next step is to fill the diff housing with silicone fluid.   

I fill the diff until the fluid completely covers the gears and cross pins. Then let the diff sit for a few minutes to let any air bubbles out of the oil. On the Team Losi Racing 8ight 3.0 I use 5,000 in the front, 7,000 in the center, and 3,000 in the rear. If the track is low grip, I switch to 5,000 in the center and 2,000 in the rear.

Next step is to drop the final gear into the diff housing

As you can see, there is too much fluid in the diff housing.  Make sure the gears are properly aligned. Then use your finger by pressing down firmly to wipe off the excess oil.

Here's how it should look after you wipe off the excess fluid.

Now you can attached the ring gear and install the diff.  I hope this helps!
Adam

8IGHT 3.0 Manual and Setup Sheet now online

We have just posted the 8IGHT 3.0 instruction manual, exploded views and blank setup sheet online.

8IGHT 3.0 Manual

8IGHT 3.0 Exploded View and Parts List

 8IGHT 3.0 Setup Sheet

TLR Twist Lock Glow Igniter

Hello TLR Drivers,

New from Team Losi Racing is the Twist Lock Glow Igniter.  This is a twist to lock igniter that is light and convenient to work in the pits and fire your engine up every time.  This was tested by Adam Drake and Dakotah Phend and is their igniter of choice.  

The Twist Lock Glow Igniter either comes individually, or in a combo with a wall charger.  See the images below for part numbers and pricing.

TLR70000 - Twist Lock Glow Igniter
$14.99

TLR70001 - Twist Lock Glow Igniter
$19.99

They are now available and shipping!

Race on!
Frank Root

Team Losi Racing 8IGHT 3.0 & TEN SCTE 2.0 Setup Tips

We are finally returning to our roots and bringing back the popular tuning tips with our latest releases. Unfortunately they are not in the manuals like they used to be, however they are now found online. You can now find the Team Losi Racing setup tips for the 8IGHT 3.0 and the TEN SCTE 2.0 here and also on each respective vehicle product page under the "Set-Up Sheet" section (8IGHT 3.0 Setup Section). We hope you find these tuning tips helpful dialing in your Team Losi Racing vehicle.

Team Losi Racing 8IGHT 3.0 Tuning Tips

Team Losi Racing TEN SCTE 2.0 Tuning Tips

SCTE 2.0 Build Tips

We are glad to introduce the SCTE 2.0 to the market.  We feel this vehicle will push this class to the next level of racing in and outdoors for 4WD racing short course truck.  We have put together some build tips here to aid those of you that have yet to put one of the together.  We have tried to tie them to steps in the manual as well for ease of use.

Servo Saver Setting(A-2) – Upon building your servo saver, we often tighten ours all the way and then back it off 3/4 of a turn.  Please take special note of the use of thread lock here so it stays where it's set.

Torque Rods (A-5, D-14) – Always be sure to thread the long setscrew all the way into the plastic side first as this will support the plastic rod end from breaking from hard crashes.  Then place a little thread lock on the side going into the metal tube and just snug it against the metal tube.

Building Shocks (E-1) – We include both types of o-rings for the top caps that have been used over the past couple of years as some prefer one to the other.  There are the thinner larger ones and the thicker slightly smaller diameter ones.  I prefer the thinner larger ones and the way these are used is to slightly stretch them over the top threads and place them against the base that the top cap threads down onto.  This way, its always there, seals great, and you don’t have to mess with it being in the shock cap.  The other o-ring which is the larger one you can place inside the shock cap is not needed if using this method.

Bottom Shock Cap Assembly (E-1) – Some of you may experience some difficulty in getting the bottom plastic cap on the base of the shock that holds the o-ring and other guide in place.  There was some shrinkage that occurred during processing which has now been taken care of but we have been told some of the kits had the slightly tighter bottom caps.  You can get these on using the following method or if yours are too tight, you can contact customer support and they can get you some new ones out.  To get them on, thread the shock top onto the bottom all the way, place the shock tool on the eyelet of the top cap, grab the bottom cap with pliers and twist the bottom cap in place as shown in the picture below.  Then take the top cap off using the other shock tool as well and build as normal.

Side-Guards (F-1) – When installing the side-guards onto the chassis, at first glance, they look the same, however they are different.  One side holds the battery in place and one side allows room for the motor.  If you look along the inner edge of the guards, you will notice one has a high spot and the other is low the entire way.  The one with the high spot is for holding the battery and is the left guard and the other lower one is the right guard.

Battery Spacing – This is certainly a personal preference or a setup type adjustment, but here are some starting recommended positions.  A lot of it is based on the surface and the motor you run on.  For those of you running dirt off-road tracks, we recommend using the middle position if using a 540 length motor and the forward position if using a 550 length motor.  If running on carpet or Astro-Turf, it is one position back from each of those based on the motor size.

ESC Wire Lead Tip – Just wanted to point out that with the spacing and the pocketing we did, the ESC lead will fit under the servo and straight up to the receiver, rather than have to be routed around it.

Receiver and Transponder location – The servo mount has a flat face on the outside of the mount, this is a great location for both your receiver and personal transponder.  We have found that the personal transponders actually work better mounted up here rather than flat on the chassis.

SCTE 2.0 Setup Tips – Also, for those that haven’t read or downloaded a copy of this quick setup guide for the SCTE 2.0, please take a look at it here on the Team Losi Racing web page:

http://www.tlracing.com/ProdInfo/Files/TLR03000_Tuning_Tips.pdf

Race On!

Ryan Dunford

TLR 8ight 3.0 Testing 

Yesterday we headed out to the track again this week for some more 8ight 3.0 testing before leaving for Nitro Challenge next week. We have been extremely happy with the set up we have come up with the last couple of weeks. We wanted to confirm our set up by hitting as many tracks as we can. We've found the set up to be very consistent from track to track with very little changes. The whole team has been working extremely hard the last few weeks working close and communicating daily. Billy Fischer and Dakotah Phend have been very involved with Adam Drake and Mike Truhe with all the set up changes. They have also been very happy with the current set up, saying there confidence is at an all time high and very much looking forward to The Dirt Nitro Challenge.  

The 8ight 3.0 has been a huge improvement with the bump handling and the ever better jump handling over the 2.0. We have also found the 3.0 to have a much better feel on the wheel,  meaning you can go faster and feel more comfortable as the steering is much smoother then the 2.0. We look to see everyone next week in AZ for the Dirt Nitro Challenge. 

Aluminum Driveshafts and TLR Shock Oil

Hello TLR Drivers,

We have few exciting new option/accessory parts for TLR that have been announced today.  To help gain the extra advantage in stock racing, we have developed Aluminum Driveshaft sets for the 22 line of vehicles: 22, 22T and 22SCT.  This helps to reduce the weight of your 22 vehicle in the most critical area, rotating mass.  You can purchase the complete driveshaft set with the axles, couplers, pins, set screws, thread lock and black grease, or you can purchase just the CVA bones.  The part numbers and prices are below each of the images below:

TLR332002 - Driveshaft Set, Aluminum, Complete, 22
$39.99

TLR332005 - Driveshaft Set, Aluminum: 22
$21.99

TLR332003 - Driveshaft  Set Aluminum, Complete, 22T
$44.99

TLR332006 - Driveshaft Set, Aluminum: 22T
$24.99

TLR332004 - Driveshaft Set, Aluminum, Complete, 22SCT
$44.99

TLR332007 - Driveshaft Set, Aluminum: 22SCT
$24.99

We also have the same great Losi Certified Shock Oil move over to the Team Losi Racing (TLR) brand and packaging.  The oil has not changed, just the part numbers and packaging.  See the list of part numbers below:

TLR74001 - Silicone Shock Oil, 17.5 wt., 2oz.

TLR74002 - Silicone Shock Oil, 20 wt., 2oz.

TLR74003 - Silicone Shock Oil, 22.5 wt., 2oz.

TLR74004 - Silicone Shock Oil, 25.5 wt., 2oz.

TLR74005 - Silicone Shock Oil, 27.5 wt., 2oz.

TLR74006 - Silicone Shock Oil, 30 wt., 2oz.

TLR74007 - Silicone Shock Oil, 32.5 wt., 2oz.

TLR74008 - Silicone Shock Oil, 35 wt., 2oz.

TLR74009 - Silicone Shock Oil, 37.5 wt., 2oz.

TLR74010 - Silicone Shock Oil, 40 wt., 2oz.

TLR74011 - Silicone Shock Oil, 42.5 wt., 2oz.

TLR74012 - Silicone Shock Oil, 45 wt., 2oz.

TLR74013 - Silicone Shock Oil, 50 wt., 2oz.

TLR74014 - Silicone Shock Oil, 60 wt., 2oz.

TLR74015 - Silicone Shock Oil, 70 wt., 2oz.

TLR74016 - Silicone Shock Oil, 80 wt., 2oz.

TLR74017 - Silicone Shock Oil, 90 wt., 2oz.

TLR74018 - Silicone Shock Oil, 100 wt., 2oz.

TLR74019 - Shock Oil 6 Pack, 17.5, 22.5, 27.5, 32.5, 37.5, 42.5, 2oz.

TLR74020 - Shock Oil 6 Pack, 20, 25, 30, 35, 40, 45, 2oz.

TLR74021 - Shock Oil 6 Pack, 50, 60, 70, 80, 90, 100, 2oz.

TLR74005 - Silicone Shock Oil, 27.5wt, 2oz.
$3.99

We hope you enjoy the new product!

Race On!

Frank