Tuesday, May 16, 2017

8IGHT 12 deg front spindle carrier set

Hello everyone,

This week we will do a product spotlight on TLR’s new front spindle carrier set, 12 deg for TLR’s 8/8E/8T 4.0 vehicles (TLR344004). Let’s review the differences between more and less front caster. Less front caster has less initial steering when entering corners, but it should have more mid-corner steering with less corner exit steering. More front caster has more initial steering when entering corners, but should have less mid corner steering with more corner exit steering. I feel the 12 deg spindle carrier helps the car in higher grip situations by not upsetting the car on corner entry and exit. It also gives the ability to steer on power in the middle of the corner. This front spindle carrier also comes with the optional roll center hole, which is an added tuning item that can work with the inter front camber link for optional front roll centers.
 JR #8realm

Wednesday, May 10, 2017

Stiffezel TLR 22 4.0 arms

 Hello everyone, 

This week we will talk about TLR’s new material called stiffezel. The TLR 22 4.0 comes with stiffezel front and rear arms (TLR334046 front, TLR334047 rear). A nice tuning option is the standard material that is slightly softer then the stiffezel arms (TLR234046 front, TLR234079 rear). I experienced this option at round one of the TLR cup in Omaha switching from stiffezel rear arms only to the standard material rear arms and I found a slight increase of rear grip and stability on the tricky and bumpy surface at the HobbyPlex. I haven’t tested the difference in performance of the front arm material, but I asked TLR’s Frank Root for his opinion and here’s what he had to say: FR “It’s not really a balance change, the car feels like it gains the stability of a heavier car with the stiffezel front arms, without losing the nimbleness of a lighter car.” 


JR 
#22empire

Thursday, May 4, 2017

22-4 2.0 flattening

Hello everyone,

This week we’re back from the first TLR cup at HobbyPlex in Omaha, Nebraska, which was a total success and a great event. I can’t wait for the next one coming up quickly May 19-21 at RC Excitement in Fitchburg, Mass. At this past weekend’s race, we (me and teammate Hunter Holmberg) helped teammate and race one winner, Tanner Denney, with figuring out the tweak on his TLR 22-4 2.0. Here recently we’ve found adding a .5mm shim between the rear stock tower and above the right rear anti-squat blocks helps get the car to lay flat (see pic one). After adding this shim flip on your 22-4 2.0 take it over on a flat surface and make sure all four points of both front and rear shock towers lay flat (see pic two). This might require the bottom two front screws for the rear shock tower to not be tightened fully to make this possible.

JR
#22empire

Tuesday, April 25, 2017

Front toe-out

Hello everyone,

This week I would like to talk about front toe-out. For most of my racing, over the many years, there has really only been one way to run the front toe on any vehicle and that’s at 0 degrees, or no toe-in or out. Things have changed recently with many drivers going with a good amount of toe-out on the 1/8th scale side and the 1/10th Carpet/Turf of their programs. I find that I use it more in 1/8th scale, as it helps in sweeping corners (I think this is because the outside front tire on cornering just doesn’t steer as much with full steering). However, this can get a little dicey at low speed turn in as it will initiate the corner quicker; to compensate with this, I find that I usually run one spring stiffer than normal.

JR
#22empire
#8realm

Thursday, April 20, 2017

22 4.0 Rear Wing Angle

Hello Racers!

We have an all new screw-in type rear wing mount on the 22 4.0, and I wanted to share a little detail about how the adjustable wing angle works.  It is very similar to the 22 3.0, but mostly just with a slight change of the angle options.

The mounting pads on the wing stay are designed with 2 degrees of rake from the start, so if you mount the wing without the wedged shim, your wing will have 2 degrees of rake.  You'll simply add the mounting washer above the wing and you're all set.  The kit does include a shim that is wedged by 4 degs with markings on both sides, 4 deg on one side and 0 deg on the other.  If you run the fat side of the wedge forward directly on top of the mounting pad of the wing stay, you'll effectively have 0 degrees of rake with your wing.  If you reverse the shim, and run the fat end to the rear, you'll have 4 degree of rake on the wing.  Regardless of which setting you're running (0,2,4), you will still run the mounting washer on top.

0 degree - Fat edge of wedge shim forward, shim under the wing
2 degree - No shim used
4 degree - Fat edge of wedge shim rearward, shim under the wing

More wing angle will increase rear grip throughout all turns, but especially at high speed.  It will also increase drag (reduce straight line speeds), which may affect spec racers a little, although not likely too much.  I have been personally running 2 degrees myself in most cases on my 2wd buggies, and 0 usually on 4wd as a good starting point.

Have fun building your 4.0s!
Frank Root



Sweepstakes

Hello everyone,

Team Losi Racing will be kicking off the #TLRCup next weekend at HobbyTown USA HobbyPlex. To celebrate, we've asked Frank Root TLR to build a top of the line ready to win TLR 22 4.0 kit for a sweepstakes.  Enter early and often below through 4/27 for your chance to win here at Horizon Hobby!

*Enter to win here*


#HorizonHobby #ExploreYourHobby #TeamLosiRacing 

 JR
 #22empire

Wednesday, April 19, 2017

TLR 22 4.0 options

Hello everyone,

As we get closer to the release of TLR’s 22 4.0 (kits should start shipping this week), I would like to put a list of option parts together that is good to have in your parts box for both clay and carpet versions of the 22 4.0. This list isn’t a must have as the 22 4.0 will give you multiple options within the kit to switch from clay to carpet; these are options I’ve found over the last month as I’ve attended both types of conditions.
Clay:
TLR331019 SERVO MOUNT, CHASSIS BRACE, ALUM
*This allows you to move the servo back about 4mm's*
TLR334041 HINGE PIN BRACE, LRC +27G
*This gives the rear end a little more overall grip*
Carpet:
TLR331019 SERVO MOUNT, CHASSIS BRACE, ALUM
*This helps by adding front weight and stiffens the front of the car*
TLR331028 FORWARD BRASS PLATE SET
*This adds more front weight which is needed for carpet*
TLR334039 FRONT SWAY BAR SETTLR334040 REAR SWAY BAR SET
*This help with the added grip of carpet (less traction rolling)*
Be sure to keep in touch with all the TLR/Horizon Hobby social media outlets (Horizon Hobby’s FaceBook, TLR’s FaceBook, TLR’s Team Blog, and the FaceBook group #22empire) this coming Thursday April 20, 2017 for a special announcement that will align with round one of the TLR Cup at HobbyPlex in Omaha, Nebraska April 28- April 30.

JR
#22empire

Thursday, April 13, 2017

TLR 8IGHT 4.0 Tuning Kit

Hey Everyone,

Today we announced the all new TLR Tuning Kit for the 8IGHT 4.0. The kit comes with a bunch of new parts that the team has been working on for the past year and we are excited to share them with you. These are all of the parts that we ran at the World Championships in Las Vegas and we are glad to finally get them out to the masses.  The main goal of 8IGHT 4.0 tuning kit was to enhance our handling on bumpy tracks. We will go into detail with each part and why they are advantageous.

1. Front and Rear Universals and Aluminum Spindle - The front and rear universals allow the car to accelerate through the bumps better because they reduce the amount of bind under power and off-power. One will notice that the car rolls a bit more when running the universals. Now there is a new spindle that is required to use the front universals. The spindle was required because the joint of the universal needs to align with the kingpin so the universal needs to sit deeper into the spindle. If joint doesn't align with the kingpin, the universal does not work properly, so the new spindle was needed. However, on the rear, the universal was shortened slightly to accommodate our standard hub.

                   


2. Chassis - The chassis is our standard 4mm thick 7075 aluminum chassis but milled down to 3mm in key locations to create flex in the cars, therefore making the car a bit easier to drive in the bumps. All of the gearboxes, radio tray and other key mounting locations of other components areas are not milled down to ensure all of the legacy parts still fit onto the chassis. Additionally, the chassis has the rear gear box holes and rear chassis brace holes "snow-manned" to allow the gearbox to shift forward to use the new offset hinge pin braces that move the arms back to the stock wheelbase, What does this do? It greatly reduces the rear dogbone angle and is a great tuning option for bumpy tracks. Generally, on bumpy tracks, the gearbox forward position is ideal.

3. Wing Mount - The only change to the wing mount is the ability to either use a screw down locking feature for the wing, which is very popular for the pro racer, or the ability to still use a body clip to hold your wing.
4. Servo Saver Nut - The only change here is the ability to singe down the nut via a small cap head screw to ensure your servo saver nut to never backs off during a long event. We still advise using TLR-Lok (thread lock) on the threads for added security.

5. New Brake Rotors and Plates - We have created fully CNC machined brake rotors made of steel and lightened appropriately along with new brake plates with TLR composite brake pads. The new braking system works excellent and reduces any concern of brake fade.

6. Magnetic Wheel Nuts - The Tuning Kit includes our new capped wheel nuts that use a small 2-56 flathead screw that threads into a small nut on the backside of the wheel nut. The new TLR Magnetic wheel wrench, TLR70003 sold separately, has a magnet inserted into the wrench that works in conjunction with the wheel nuts allowing quick tire changes before qualifiers or main events. It also makes the wrenching process a little easier. The new wheel wrench and nuts will work on any TLR vehicle.





7. New Body and Wing - TLR has stretched the imagination once again with an aggressive cab forward body. The body has an extreme cab-forward look to it along with rigid and hard design lines. Some will love the body and others will hate it, but we do recall that everyone didn't care for the original 8T 2.0 cab forward body and it became and industry standard. We are not sure that this will set a trend, but we had to state that. The new poly-carbonate wing is an HI-Down-force wing that works with our existing wicker bills. The wing definitely compliments the body and provides a neutral balance to the vehicle.  Both the wing and the body come pre-cut.







Wednesday, April 12, 2017

Clutch bells

Hello Everyone,


This week after getting back from the PNB in Tennessee, I would like to talk about clutch bells, and more specifically the 13t clutch bell for your TLR 8IGHT vehicles.  TLR/Losi has two 13 tooth clutch bells, part numbers LOSA9126 and LOSA9116, and I would like to explain what each one does. The LOSA9126 (on the right) is a high endurance clutch bell that is a powder metal molded clutch bell, which slips a little more, is easier on the clutch and lasts longer. The LOSA9116 is a fully machined clutch bell(on the left) and is our standard clutch bell that grabs harder, is harder on the clutch shoes, and doesn’t last as long. Both clutch bells are great tuning options, as track condition could favor one over the other.


JR
#8realm

Tuesday, April 4, 2017

Dakotah Phend 2017 Dirt Nitro Challenge & Silver State Setup Sheets

Dakotah Phend 2017 Dirt Nitro Challenge & Silver State  8IGHT 4.0 Buggy Setup
Dakotah Phend 2017 Dirt Nitro Challenge & Silver State  8IGHT-E 4.0 Buggy Setup
Dakotah Phend 2017 Dirt Nitro Challenge & Silver State  8IGHT-T 4.0 Truggy Setup

Monday, April 3, 2017

8IGHT 4.0 setup changes



Hello everyone,

If you like and follow our Team Losi Racing FaceBook page, our Team Manager Kevin Gahan, gave everyone a little insight on what the team has found to work the best over the last couple of major events.  I, along with other team drivers, have made these modifications/set-up changes to our nitro 8IGHT 4.0’s and 8IGHT-E 4.0’s. Here is a full run down here on the Team Blog of what’s needed and what to expect.  Below are a list of parts and a picture showing how the HRC “D” plate is installed. 


1.       HRC “D” plate (TLR244036) requires some dremeling to lay flat on the chassis after flipping it over.  A LRC “C” plate with 1 down inserts (this “C” plate is the one the car comes with).
2.       A 40-gram front weight (TLR341001) with Black front springs (TLR243017).
3.       Front spindles in their higher location with front kick-up inserts 0 and 0.
4.       Standard width rear hexes (LOSA3530).


After having a couple of hours with the changes, I felt like I could drive the car harder and every little bump or imperfection in the track wouldn’t upset the car at the higher speed I was trying to go. There will be more testing taking place this weekend at Psycho Nitro Blast, so stay tuned for more updates.

JR
#8realm

Tuesday, March 28, 2017

22SCT 3.0 setup

Hello everyone,

Over the weekend, I attended the Judge at GSHobby in Barling, Arkansas with my newest addition to the fleet; the 22SCT 3.0. This was my fifth straight year attending this great event put on by Bryon Shumate and Chris Jones of GSHobby. The track is small in size with lap times between 6-8 seconds, but it’s still a blast to race on and the traction is super high. This event isn’t just about racing, as we get great sponsors on board like TLR/Horizon Hobby for one of the best raffle prize giveaways I’ve ever seen. I set my TLR 22SCT 3.0 with some knowledge of the 22SCT 2.0. I would like to share what we came up with and finished with after the event was over. I installed some key items like front and rear sway bars (TLR334001 and TLR334038) to help with the added traction at GSHobby.


TLR 22 SCT setup



JR
#22empire

Tuesday, March 21, 2017

1/8th Droop

Hello everyone,

The other day, I asked the #8realm on Facebook what they would like to see here on the Team Losi Racing blog. A good amount wanted to see how to measure droop and what droop does to our TLR 1/8th scale rides. For the measuring, see picture below.  You want to be as close to center on the shock screws and on the shock standoff, so as close as you can get.  As for what droop does, here is my take. More front droop increases off-power steering, it can increase rear grip, and gives the front less on-power grip. Less front droop gives more on-power steering and quicker steering reaction. More rear droop provides more grip in loose conditions and increases off-power/braking steering. Less rear droop takes rear grip away and is more stable on high grip. I would recommend making changes in your testing by .5mm increments and with the car on a car stand with tires on the car.
JR
#8realm

Tuesday, March 14, 2017

22 4.0,22-4 2.0, and 22T 3.0 carpet setups


Hello everyone,

Over the weekend, I attended the Extreme Carpet Initiative Race in Spring Hill, Tennessee with all three TLR rides (22 4.0,22-4 2.0, and 22T 3.0). This was my second year attending this event and it just keeps getting bigger; this year with close to 150 entries. The extreme crew set the track up on an indoor gym basketball court and the race brought racers in from surrounding states. I set my TLR 22 4.0 with help from the team and I would like to share what we came up and finished with after the event was over. For my TLR 22T 3.0 and 22-4 2.0, I used some knowledge from racing carpet before, and I installed some key items like TLR’s +3.5 hubs and different shock locations to help with the added grip of the Extreme RC Raceway track. Below are some links taking you to my setup’s:


TLR 22 4.0 setup

TLR 22T 3.0 setup

TLR 22-4 2.0 setup

JR
#22empire

Wednesday, March 8, 2017

8IGHT Platform Shock End installation and maintenance

Hi team,

  I wanted to give everyone a brief run through of our recommendation for installing and maintaining shock ends. While these components are often overlooked, their failure can be a very frustrating end to an otherwise great result on the track.
  The most important piece of information I can relay to you is ensuring you are getting the shock ends installed correctly.  The way that they are designed, they rely on the stalk of the shock shaft to engage and ‘interference fit’ the socket portion of the eyelet.  This is how they gain their strength in relation to the pivot ball.  If the shock shaft is threaded in incompletely, it is possible for the thread to wallow slightly, and weaken the formed threads to the point that the shock shaft can pull free from the eyelet in a moderate to severe impact.
  I have created a simple diagram demonstrating the correct shaft to eyelet engagement below.
  Maintaining your Shock Ends is actually quite simple.  I recommend every time the eyelets are removed from the shock shaft, for any reason, they are simply disposed of and replaced with fresh parts.  This way you can be confident that your race won’t be sabotaged by a $2 part.
  When installed completely/correctly, your shock ends can last indefinitely, but once they are removed from the shock shaft and reinstalled, this is when the formed threads in the eyelet can become compromised and offer less than perfect engagement, thus lowering the reliability substantially.



Brian Kinney

TLR  

Tuesday, March 7, 2017

22 4.0 Turf/Carpet

Hello everyone,

Last week was the debut of TLR’s 22 4.0 2wd buggy kit. We’ve seen it in its dirt laydown and standup form, but I wanted to take a second and show everyone it in its Turf/Carpet form. This coming weekend I’m off to Spring Hill, Tennessee for the JConcepts Extreme Carpet Initiative race where I’ll be racing my TLR 22 4.0 in its Turf/Carpet configuration. Be sure to like and follow Team Losi Racing on FaceBook for Videos and Pictures from this weekend's event.
These items below I have installed and come with the TLR 22 4.0 kit:
Diff at +3 with +3 rear hubs
Battery all the way forward
Molded HRC front pivot
Front spindles all the way up with 2mm trail
Front axles spaced out

JR Mitch
#22empire

Monday, March 6, 2017

8 2.0 EU body (LOSA8093) back in stock!

We just brought back the Team Losi Racing 8IGHT 2.0 EU Body back into stock after a lot of requests. This 1/8 nitro body offers a traditional cab design with a sleek fin running down the middle of the cab. Drivers have stated that it has a better balance of steering and traction when using this body. Below is a picture of Reno Savoya's 8IGHT 4.0 with the 8 2.0 EU body.

Photo: Compliments of Neobuggy.net.

Monday, February 27, 2017

22 3.0 & 4.0 CVA's

Hello everyone,

This week I would like to talk about the very minimal, but very important 1mm axle spacer on our TLR 22 line of vehicles. This spacer for me has been a very beneficial tuning option in all types of track conditions. We asked TLR driver, JP Richards to give us his thoughts on the spacer and its use; “I think it gives the car more drive/forward grip out of the corner. It also reduces the roll in the corners as it seems to bind the drivetrain up. It’s something I always run on low to medium bite tracks. The higher the bite, the more it will bind the car up and kill corner speed.” Thanks for the insight on this tuning option and good luck at this week’s Chi-Town Shootout.

JR
#22empire

Tuesday, February 21, 2017

22 3.0: JP Richards Setup Changes at Motorama

Hey Everyone,

In this post I'm gonna talk about some of the setup changes I made to my TLR 22 3.0 buggy and TLR 22T 3.0 truck while at Motorama to accommodate the slightly looser track conditions.

In the case of Motorama this past weekend, I was told we were going to be running an outdoor pin style tire. So I made sure my stand up transmission was in both of my 3.0 vehicles. I went with my normal stand up setup on both cars. After my first practice runs, I decided the first change needed was to lighten the shock oil up in the car front and rear to get the car to settle in the track more and go through the bumps better. Lighter oil will help the car transfer weight to the rear of the car a little quicker and increase the rebound speeds to help get through bumps better. In my buggy I went from 35 front and 30 rear, to 32.5 front 27.5 rear and my truck I went from 35 to 32.5 in the front and 27.5 to 25 in the rear. This gave me that extra weight transfer needed for the car to produce more overall traction.

I also increased the rear toe-in on both cars from 3.0 degrees to 3.5 degrees to get a little more overall traction out of the cars.

Attached are both of my TQ and Winning setups from this past weekend.

JP Richards
#22empire

Motorama


Hello everyone,

Well we’re all back from Motorama and trying to get back in the swing of things. Motorama was a great event for TLR, coming home with two wins with JP Richards(TLR 22 3.0 and 22T 3.0), one win Jonathan Noon (TLR 22 3.0SR) on the 1/10th scale side of the program and with podium finish’s by Anthony Mazzara (TLR 8ight E 4.0) and Spencer Hechert (TLR 8ight E 4.0)  on the 1/8th side. I asked Spencer Hechert to share a change that he did to his TLR 8ight E 4.0 while at this event and what he felt the change did for his driving. Spencer followed a setup from last year’s event which had the front inner hinge pin with a 0 pill in the front and rear (this gives the car less front kick up), Spencer changed this to 1 up and 1 down and had this to say about the outcome. SH It calmed the car down and it made it much easier to drive. It also handled the bumps betterThanks Spencer great job and good luck in your future racing!

JR
#8realm
#22empire