Wednesday, October 18, 2017
This week I asked TLR’s Ryan Dunford to share a little insight into the newest release from TLR which are Carbon Fiber shock towers for TLR’s 8IGHT T 4.0, 8IGHT E 4.0, and 8IGHT 4.0 vehicles. Below are part numbers and a little description of each item.
TLR344011 Carbon Front Shock Tower: 8/E 4.0 This is made out of carbon fiber for increased durability and it is light Weight. This is made out of thick 5mm material for added durability. This tower is 7 grams lighter than the stock tower.
TLR344012 Carbon Rear Shock Tower: 8/E 4.0 This is made out of carbon fiber for increased durability and is light Weight. This is made out of thick 4mm material for added durability. This has additional tuning options for use on different track surfaces. This tower is 13 grams lighter than the stock tower.
TLR344014 Carbon Rear Shock Tower: 8T 4.0 This is made out of carbon fiber for increased durability and is light Weight. This is made out of thick 4mm material for added durability. This tower is 14 grams lighter than the stock tower.
Wednesday, October 11, 2017
I wanted to take a quick minute to make you aware of a new product released. These are our new positioning mounts that are nice and bright florescent yellow for the TLR starter box TLR99059. These are part number TLR70004. These are for those of us that are maybe struggling to see to properly position our buggy and truggy as it starts getting dark out. These provide a nice high contrast between the dark black starter box and the dark black of the side guards and hard anodized other goodies on your TLR rides. These come with a bunch of parts but the intent is really to utilize the front and rear outer positioning mounts.
Let me show you the contrast here:
To change these out, you start off by removing the two screws on the top plate nearest the rear mount as shown:
Nothing too crazy here but helpful nonetheless. Enjoy the races folks!!!
Wednesday, October 4, 2017
Today I would like to show a different use of TLR’s Hex Differential Wrench (TLR2950). If you don’t have this tool already for it’s easier adjustment of any TLR ball Differential without removing of a tire or a ball cup, maybe this blog post will put it on your list of must haves. Last Thursday here in Florida at Newred hobbies for some club racing I changed my anti-squat rear suspension inserts and used TLR’s Hex Differential Wrench tool to help remove the inserts without damage or removal of the anti-squat block.
Tuesday, September 26, 2017
This week I would like to pass on a couple of TLR 8IGHT setups from our teams both here in the US and overseas in France. First, we asked Spencer Heckert to send over his setups from this past weekend’s race at LCRC. Spencer had an outstanding performance taking 2nd in nitro buggy and the win with the TQ in the nitro Truggy class. Next it is off to France and team driver, Reno Savoya, who won round five of the French Nationals. Below is his setup from this event that was on his TLR 8IGHT 4.0. Great job guys! Keep up the good work!
Wednesday, September 13, 2017
This week I reached out to team driver Anthony Mazzara after his awesome finish at last weekend’s JConcepts Turf Nationals at RC Madness with over 300 entries.
Anthony TQed and won the 40+ 2wd mod. class, 3rd in the Pro 2wd mod. class and 5th in the Pro 4wd mod. class.
I asked Anthony to share his setups for his TLR 22 4.0 and TLR 22-4 2.0 from this event.
Wednesday, September 6, 2017
This week I would like to share a little bumper mod on the TLR 22 4.0, 22 4.0 SR, 22T 3.0 line of vehicles. Sometimes trying to install the rear toe-in block with the bumper can be a little tough and this mod helps with that. Frist remove the material shown in the picture below. With this material removed you can install the toe-in block first using the center 2x6mm Flat Head Screw then sliding the bumper into its location and then installing the two 3x12mm Flat Head Screws securing everything together.
Tuesday, August 29, 2017
Today I would like to talk about raising the front spindle height on the TLR 22-4 2.0/22-4. This is a fairly easy mod and can improve the steering and help the car drive better/easier on higher bite tracks such as turf and carpet. First remove 2mm’s of material from the bottom of the front caster blocks and add a 2mm spacer to the top of the caster block (see picture). After this is done I went to a 1mm spacer on the spindle steering turnbuckle and added 2mm’s more of drop to the front shocks to compensate the added spindle height. Another thing to keep in mind is this mod woks great with TLR’s Gen II +3.5 Rear Hub Set part number TLR234088.
Wednesday, August 23, 2017
Tuesday, August 22, 2017
Last weekend I attended The Wicked Weekend in Gainesville GA. which had over 500 entries. My TLR 8IGHT 4.0 worked great all weekend and was able to get 5th overall in pro nitro buggy. I’ve snapped a couple of body off shots and have included a setup sheet from this event.
Friday, August 11, 2017
Thursday, August 10, 2017
Making its debut today at the 2017 ROAR Nationals, is an all new prototype body for the TLR 22-4 2.0. Unofficially dubbed the "Low Profile 22-4 Body", TLR used the fan favorite styling of the 22 4.0 body as the basis for this new body shell that will fit the 22-4 1.0 and 2.0 4wd buggies. With a lower cab section, and no vertically fin, the style is matched by a more flowing and better rotating body when compared to the cab forward offering. JP Richards was the first to don the body in practice and had this to say, "First glance, the body has that new sleek and edgy design. Then you hit the track and it really helps the car have a fluent feel, with a good balance of steering, stability, and traction without the overbearing feel of a tall front cab."
The Low Profile Body is still in the prototype stage, but is roughly scheduled for a late 2017 release. Check TLRacing.com this fall/winter for further details.
Tuesday, August 8, 2017
Wednesday, August 2, 2017
Last Wednesday night, I made the trip to Beachline Raceway in Cocoa, Florida and I ran some tests on turf, while Frank Root did some carpet racing in California. The team has found a steering rack modification for higher spindle heights on your 22 4.0 or 22 3.0 vehicles that will help fix the bump out setting. Currently, if you run spindles with 4mm (or more) on top, the only available Ackermann setting with acceptable bump steer is the #2 Ackermann arm. By flipping the bell cranks upside down, and mounting the rack on top of the bell cranks, you can now achieve the correct bump setting when run the #1 and #3 Ackermann arms, or the 22 2.0 spindles which Frank found to be really good with his testing (TLR234007). This raises the inter-steering link to compensate giving you the right bump steer when running 4mm on top for spindle height.
With the rack flippers, some Dremel work is necessary to the steering rack arms and front bulkhead for clearance. Please reference the pictures below for details.
Tuesday, July 25, 2017
This week we will do a product spotlight on TLR’s new Stiffezel front wheels for the 22 line of buggies. I asked TLR’s Frank Root for his opinion on the Stiffezel front wheels and here’s what he had to say: FR Using the same design as the standard TLR wheels, the Stiffezel front wheels have been molded from stiffer composite, which allows the wheel to flex less under higher load. During testing, the team has found these wheels to create more consistent at high speed, while adding more steering in longer, high load turns. The best analogy used by a tester was, "The Stiffezel front wheels make it feel like I tightened a servo saver, even though the 22's don't have one." These wheels are highly recommended, especially for use on higher grip clay, carpet, or astroturf tracks.
Friday, July 21, 2017
This week I would like to cover the next question that came up on my recent post on the #22empire and that’s 1/10th scale gear diff maintenance and rebuilding. In the picture below, I’m rebuilding my gear diff and I’ll give a description for some key items when rebuilding a gear diff. A) Disassemble and clean all parts thoroughly with motor spray (do not clean o-rings with motor spray). B & C) Show all parts after cleaning. D) Reapply new high-pressure black grease and the O-rings followed by the flat washer on both sides of the diff. E) Reapply threadlock to the outdrive setscrew. F) Refill your gear diff with your diff fluid of choice. G) Tighten the four outer case screws in a cross pattern. This will give you a nice new freshly rebuilt gear diff ready for racing.
Wednesday, July 12, 2017
This week I would like to cover the next question that came up on my recent post on the #22empire and that’s 1/10th scale diff maintenance and rebuilding. In the picture below I’m rebuilding my diff for this weekend’s Hot Rod Shootout race at Hot Rod Hobbies and I’ll give a description for some key items when rebuilding a diff. This diff has about three large race events and some club racing events on it and you can feel it’s a little gritty. Picture A1 and A2 shows “flipping” the drive rings and trust washer for a new surface area; this is key because not doing this will result in having the same gritty feel you're trying to get rid of in the first place. Picture B shows cleaning of the internal parts of the diff (I.E. outdrives, rings, trust and diff balls). Picture C shows reassembly of the diff with new silicone grease. Picture D shows reassembly of the trust washer assembly with new high-pressure black grease. This will give you a fresh new diff ready for racing.
Wednesday, July 5, 2017
Recently I asked the #22empire for some feedback on what they would like to see covered here on the Team Losi Racing blog. I received multiple questions and I will cover them all in the next couple of weeks. Out of those questions, a majority would like some input on LRC vs. HCR and which conditions work best for each. LRC lowers the inner hinge pin which equals more roll for added grip and a softer suspension feel on the track. HRC raises the inner hinge pin which equals to less roll for less grip and a stiffer suspension feel on the track. Overall I wish this was a cut and dry question but it’s really a decision setting for which track you’re on and how you like the feel. I’ve raced on tracks where HRC should be the best and felt better racing with LRC. Here are some key points I associate when I need to decide on LRC or HRC.
LRC = if the track is lower grip/bumpy
HRC = if the track is super high grip/smooth (like a condition when front and rear sway bars are needed)
Thursday, June 29, 2017
Well we’re back from the Roar Fuel Nationals and ready for this week’s blog post. First off, I want to give a shout out to thank Frank Root for covering last week’s blog post as I was on the road at the nationals. This week I would like to give everyone a little insight on what I do with my TLR 8IGHT 4.0 and TLR 8IGHT T 4.0 throttle linkage and why the dead band is needed. This is mostly needed so the carburetor stays shut under chassis flex. Picture one shows no dead band at all and the carburetor can still open under chassis flex. Picture two shows 1mm of dead band which can still leave the carburetor open under chassis flex. Picture three shows 2mm’s of dead band which is what’s needed for keeping the carburetor closed under chassis flex.
Tuesday, June 20, 2017
JP has mentioned that the truck was really good from kit setup, but the balance and speed increased noticeably for him when switching to laydown. Given this feedback, we release a new part, TLR338006. This is the machined laydown kit we used for the 22 3.0, but without the body or chassis to help reduce the cost. Check out the conversion below:
For a good starting setup, I would suggest JP's setup from the JC Nationals hosted by SMAC Trac. Although he was running stand up at that event, he has not changed his setup to accommodate from the mid motor configuration.
Wednesday, June 14, 2017
This week I would like to talk about TLR’s option part Servo Mount, Chassis Brace (TLR331019) for your TLR 22 4.0, 22 3.0, 22 3.0 SR, and 22T 3.0. This option part allows the customer to run his or her servo either in the stock forward position or move the servo back in the car 4mm’s. Moving the servo to the optional back location requires some trimming of different components.
1. Trimming of TLR231065 Mud Guard in locations indicated in picture below.
Wednesday, June 7, 2017
This week, I would like to talk about the E clutch and aligning the clutch bell with the center diff better. During this past weekend's club racing in Florida, I noticed this to be an issue with a racer and I would like to share with everyone what I do to help with this issue. The 8IGHT E 4.0 center diff comes with two aluminum shims on each side of the center diff behind each diff bearings (TLR242008). Before building the center diff I don’t add the aluminum shim to the diff gear side and I add rear diff shims (LOSB3951) to the other side (the none gear side) of the diff. This moves the diff slightly more forward giving you better gear to gear alignment. This week the team is in Cullman, Alabama for AMS 8.0. Be sure to check out our FaceBook and Instagram for videos and photos from this weekend’s event.
Wednesday, May 31, 2017
Wednesday, May 24, 2017
This past weekend, I attended race #2 of the TLR Cup at the awesome facility RCE. I did a lot of running/testing both indoor and outdoor and I took notes from running my TLR 22 4.0, and I would like to share the most significant find. I changed anti-squat quite a bit and I ended up running less than normal. I started with 2 deg which is normal for most setups and I went to 1 deg to try to add a little more side grip in corners along with more forward grip. The change did this, but maybe a little too much than what I was looking for. I finished with 1.5 deg and the rear shocks laid in on the stock tower to have the balance I was looking for. So, if you’re in the situation looking for a little more rear grip with added side grip try these two set-up changes.
Tuesday, May 16, 2017
This week we will do a product spotlight on TLR’s new front spindle carrier set, 12 deg for TLR’s 8/8E/8T 4.0 vehicles (TLR344004). Let’s review the differences between more and less front caster. Less front caster has less initial steering when entering corners, but it should have more mid-corner steering with less corner exit steering. More front caster has more initial steering when entering corners, but should have less mid corner steering with more corner exit steering. I feel the 12 deg spindle carrier helps the car in higher grip situations by not upsetting the car on corner entry and exit. It also gives the ability to steer on power in the middle of the corner. This front spindle carrier also comes with the optional roll center hole, which is an added tuning item that can work with the inter front camber link for optional front roll centers.
Wednesday, May 10, 2017
This week we will talk about TLR’s new material called stiffezel. The TLR 22 4.0 comes with stiffezel front and rear arms (TLR334046 front, TLR334047 rear). A nice tuning option is the standard material that is slightly softer then the stiffezel arms (TLR234046 front, TLR234079 rear). I experienced this option at round one of the TLR cup in Omaha switching from stiffezel rear arms only to the standard material rear arms and I found a slight increase of rear grip and stability on the tricky and bumpy surface at the HobbyPlex. I haven’t tested the difference in performance of the front arm material, but I asked TLR’s Frank Root for his opinion and here’s what he had to say: FR “It’s not really a balance change, the car feels like it gains the stability of a heavier car with the stiffezel front arms, without losing the nimbleness of a lighter car.”
Thursday, May 4, 2017
This week we’re back from the first TLR cup at HobbyPlex in Omaha, Nebraska, which was a total success and a great event. I can’t wait for the next one coming up quickly May 19-21 at RC Excitement in Fitchburg, Mass. At this past weekend’s race, we (me and teammate Hunter Holmberg) helped teammate and race one winner, Tanner Denney, with figuring out the tweak on his TLR 22-4 2.0. Here recently we’ve found adding a .5mm shim between the rear stock tower and above the right rear anti-squat blocks helps get the car to lay flat (see pic one). After adding this shim flip on your 22-4 2.0 take it over on a flat surface and make sure all four points of both front and rear shock towers lay flat (see pic two). This might require the bottom two front screws for the rear shock tower to not be tightened fully to make this possible.
Tuesday, April 25, 2017
This week I would like to talk about front toe-out. For most of my racing, over the many years, there has really only been one way to run the front toe on any vehicle and that’s at 0 degrees, or no toe-in or out. Things have changed recently with many drivers going with a good amount of toe-out on the 1/8th scale side and the 1/10th Carpet/Turf of their programs. I find that I use it more in 1/8th scale, as it helps in sweeping corners (I think this is because the outside front tire on cornering just doesn’t steer as much with full steering). However, this can get a little dicey at low speed turn in as it will initiate the corner quicker; to compensate with this, I find that I usually run one spring stiffer than normal.
Thursday, April 20, 2017
We have an all new screw-in type rear wing mount on the 22 4.0, and I wanted to share a little detail about how the adjustable wing angle works. It is very similar to the 22 3.0, but mostly just with a slight change of the angle options.
The mounting pads on the wing stay are designed with 2 degrees of rake from the start, so if you mount the wing without the wedged shim, your wing will have 2 degrees of rake. You'll simply add the mounting washer above the wing and you're all set. The kit does include a shim that is wedged by 4 degs with markings on both sides, 4 deg on one side and 0 deg on the other. If you run the fat side of the wedge forward directly on top of the mounting pad of the wing stay, you'll effectively have 0 degrees of rake with your wing. If you reverse the shim, and run the fat end to the rear, you'll have 4 degree of rake on the wing. Regardless of which setting you're running (0,2,4), you will still run the mounting washer on top.
0 degree - Fat edge of wedge shim forward, shim under the wing
2 degree - No shim used
4 degree - Fat edge of wedge shim rearward, shim under the wing
More wing angle will increase rear grip throughout all turns, but especially at high speed. It will also increase drag (reduce straight line speeds), which may affect spec racers a little, although not likely too much. I have been personally running 2 degrees myself in most cases on my 2wd buggies, and 0 usually on 4wd as a good starting point.
Have fun building your 4.0s!
Team Losi Racing will be kicking off the #TLRCup next weekend at HobbyTown USA HobbyPlex. To celebrate, we've asked Frank Root TLR to build a top of the line ready to win TLR 22 4.0 kit for a sweepstakes. Enter early and often below through 4/27 for your chance to win here at Horizon Hobby!
*Enter to win here*
Wednesday, April 19, 2017
As we get closer to the release of TLR’s 22 4.0 (kits should start shipping this week), I would like to put a list of option parts together that is good to have in your parts box for both clay and carpet versions of the 22 4.0. This list isn’t a must have as the 22 4.0 will give you multiple options within the kit to switch from clay to carpet; these are options I’ve found over the last month as I’ve attended both types of conditions.
TLR331019 SERVO MOUNT, CHASSIS BRACE, ALUM
*This allows you to move the servo back about 4mm's*
TLR334041 HINGE PIN BRACE, LRC +27G
*This gives the rear end a little more overall grip*
TLR331019 SERVO MOUNT, CHASSIS BRACE, ALUM
*This helps by adding front weight and stiffens the front of the car*
TLR331028 FORWARD BRASS PLATE SET
*This adds more front weight which is needed for carpet*
TLR334039 FRONT SWAY BAR SETTLR334040 REAR SWAY BAR SET
*This help with the added grip of carpet (less traction rolling)*