Thursday, December 22, 2011
Tuesday, December 13, 2011
One of the unique features of the 22 and 22T is that you can adjust front kick. The 22 comes with 20 and 25 degree kick shims while the 22T comes with a complete 30 degree kick pivot. We envision many drivers trying more kick on their 22 with the release of the 22T's 30 degree front pivot. If you own a 22 and want to try 30 degree kick you will need the following part. When using the 30 degree pivot do not use the pivot shims included with the 22.
Here is a technical article with a great and simple conclusion at the end to help all of us understand how kick changes vehicle dynamics. Increasing kick on a 2wd platform (kick effects 4wd slightly different due to the front drive) will predominately place more weight on the rear of the vehicle. The increase angle relative to the horizontal also absorbs sharp edge bumps as the kick angle serves as an auxiliary suspension and allows the front wheels to move rearward thus shortening the wheelbase. Think of more kick as almost like a break-away front end. This is why more kick is always better in the bumps. There is one caveat though. More kick will induce a more active weight transfer. The reduction in wheelbase as the front suspension compresses will result in a more aggressive weight transfer over the front; it just takes more force to get the suspension to that point compared to less kick. You can visualize the front wheels sweeping backward and the frontend of the car protruding over the front wheels more so as kick angle increases, but as I said, it just take more force to get the front suspension to that point. Front kick can be thought of as “front anti-squat”, but there are some hidden phenomenon that can be challenging. 2wd cars have historically always had more kick over 4wd cars as they need more weight transfer to develop grip, and there no front brakes or massive front weight transfer that would play into the negatives of having more kick.
In conclusion, more kick yields more rear grip, absorbs sharp edge bumps more readily, but will transfer weight more aggressively if forces are available to compress the front suspension. Less kick transfers weight at a slower rate, sacrifices in the choppy bumps, but drives flatter around the track.
Thursday, December 8, 2011
TLR1043- Front King Pin, Threaded, TiNitride (2). Most of the team prefer these because they improve the durability of the spindles.
TLR1072-Front Pivot, Aluminum: The main reason the team likes to run the aluminum front pivot is the added weight on the front end. The alumin pivot adds 7 grams of weight over the stock plastic pivot providing a smoother off-power feel and increased on-power steering. If you are interested in adding even more weight to the front of your 22 the (TLR1049)25 degree brass kick shim adds 8.8 grams of weight and the (TLR1048) 20 degree brass kick shim adds 16grams of weight.
TLR1555, 1556, 1557- Aluminum Servo Horn. TLR offers three of the aluminum servo horns to support all of the different servo splines. The aluminum servo horn increases durability over the stock servo arms. TLR1555 is a 23 spline and supports Airtronics, Spektrum, and JR. TLR1556 is a 24 spline and supports HiTec servos and TLR1557 is a 25 spline and supports Futaba servos.
TLR2056 Rear Outer Threaded Hinge Pins. If you don't want any e-clips on your 22.
TLR2060-Rear Camber Block, Aluminum-TLR offers this for added durability. The aluminum camber block offers superior durability and adds 6 grams off weight to the rear of the car aiding forward traction.
TLR2931-Rear Hex, +.75mm Width, Aluminum: The .75mm hexes widen the rear track of the car a total of 1.5mm allowing for increased stability. Some of the team will run +1.5mm hexes (TLR2932) for a total increase of 3mm track width for further enhanced stability.
TLR2946 Diff Nut, Gen II. These are the new diff nuts that have the metal insert molded into the diff nut. This is a must and will ensure an excellent diff build.
TLR2947 Tungsten Carbide Thrust Balls, 2mm (6). The 22 is equipped with steel balls. Granted these balls work fine, the tungsten balls are much harder and add longevity to the differential.
TLR2951 Tugnsten Carbide Diff Balls, 3/32" (14). The 22 is equipped with steel balls. Granted these balls work fine, the tungsten balls are much harder and add longevity to the differential.
TLR2984 Toe Plate, 3 Degree, Low Roll Center, Aluminum. As you already know the 22 comes equipped with a 4 degree rear toe pivot. Most of the team runs the 3 degree pivot allowing the car to be freer without taking away too much rear grip.
TLR4150 Battery Tray, Aluminum. This is not a necessity but the aluminum battery tray does allow you to move the battery 10mm forward in the short pack battery screw location. The 10mm forward location is exactly where our team runs the shorty pack.
TLR5074 Low Friction Shock Shaft O-Rings (8). If you want ultra free shocks with very little o-ring stiction these o-rings work the best. The challenge though is that you will have some oil weepage from the bottom of the shock cartridge and shock rebuilds are more important.
TLR6074 Titanium Turnbuckles, 22. If you are looking to save additional weight check out the 22 Titanium turnbuckle kit as well as the titanium shock mount kit, TLR4166.
Now if you are a mid motor fan check out the Brass weight system for the 22. TLR 4151 is specially designed brass weight system for the mid motor 22, this aftermarket part offers a convenient weight system that is attached with screws to the top of the transmission. The added weight aids in forward traction on the mid motor 22. The main weight is 50 grams but can be increased to 58 grams and 62 grams with attachable sub weights. The sub weights are in increments of 4 and 6 grams and can be screwed to the side of the main block to add more weight. Laser etched for easy identification of weights and TLR branding.
Tuesday, December 6, 2011
Also we realized that many racers were frustrated to have to buy the complete 22 wing mount set in order to get the wing washers. Well we now offer a solution for this and sell the wing washers in a four pack. The part number is TLR8201.
One last item I would like to share with all the racers. Black body clips are now available as well.
The part number is TLR8202 and they are in stock.
Monday, December 5, 2011
Monday, July 11, 2011
TLR offers two sets of shock o-rings for the 22. There are three set-ups you can use with these two sets of shock o-rings.
Gray o-rings come with the TLR 22. The gray o-rings are great for a racer that does not want to do much shock maintenance. The gray o-rings are bit larger in diameter allowing the o-ring to have more compression from the shock body and providing a tighter seal. You will notice more friction on the shock shaft with the gray o-rings.
Option 2 is the black and gray o-ring setup and it's what most racers prefer. Here we are using one low friction black o-ring (TLR5074) and one standard gray o-ring (TLR5093). This increases the performance of your shock from the standard kit set-up by allowing the shock to have less o-ring stiction. You will notice the shock shaft stiction will be cut in half. This will help the car develop more grip and handle better through the bumps. You will have a small amount of oil leaking from the shock from time to time but this will stop once the shock o-rings swell from the silicone oil. When building your shocks with this option always put the gray o-ring in last to give you the best seal.
OPTION 3Option three is the low friction black o-ring setup. This setup will provide the greatest performance with the least amount of shock o-ring stiction but will yield some oil leakage. When building your shocks with this option you will notice a small amount of friction on the shock shaft. With this set-up it is best to top off your shocks throughout the day of racing. This setup is what most of the TLR team uses on their 22’s.
SHOCK BUILDING TIPS
Now we are going to go over a couple of tips and things to look for when assembling your shocks together. This will assure that your shocks are at the highest performance level at all times.
Greasing the shock o-rings
Removing the plastic flashing off the shock piston
Cutting out the bladders
We have found that the shocks perform better as an emulsion shock over the stock bladder compensated shock. We have found that the emulsion shock lands better, has a better balance, and increased grip. There are two easy ways to turn your stock bladder compensated shocks into emulsion shocks.On the left is Option 1. This is the new shock cap o-ring included in LOSA5006.
On the right is Option 2, a standard shock bladder where the center has been cut out with a pair of scissors. By installing option 1 or 2 this will turn your bladder compensator shock into an emulsion shock. After doing this tip you will need to follow the directions to properly bleed an emulsion shock.
Bleeding an emulsion shock
Bleeding an emulsion shock is the last and most important step of building your shocks. You want to make sure that all four of the shocks are bled the same. Inconsistent shock pressures will hurt the track performance. Here is the best way we have found to assure all four shocks are bled the same.
First, have the shock shaft fully extended and fill the shock with oil to the top of the shock body. You don’t want the oil to spill over the top of the shock. You want a nice concave look to the oil once the shock is filled. Once you have the shock filled, push the shock shaft up and down a couple of times to remove any trapped air. At this point let the shock sit for a couple of minutes to ensure that all of the air bubbles float out of the oil.
After the shocks have sat for a couple of minutes pull the shock shaft completely down. Make sure the o-ring or cut bladder is installed into the shock cap and screw the shock cap onto the shock body. Only screw the shock cap on about ¾ of the way leaving about two threads showing.
Once all the tips and tricks are completed you will find yourself with a set of high performance TLR 22 shocks ready to hit the track.
Now that you have a set of performance shocks here is how the TLR team maintains their shocks.
The team likes to use the shock cap bottom that holds in the o-ring as an adjustment tool. When new o-rings are installed tighten the bottom shock cap all the way. As you run your car the o-rings will swell over time. After the 2nd day of running on new o-rings, loosen the shock cap bottom ¼ turn. This will relieve the pressure on the o-rings and decrease the stiction of your shock. The next time at the track loosen the bottom shock cap another 1/4 turn. This will put you at ½ turn out on the bottom cap. This is the maximum you want to loosen the shock cap bottom. Generally the top drivers run their shocks o-rings for three days before replacing them with new o-rings.
When changing the oil in your shocks add a small amount of Losi shock o-ring grease to the shock shaft. When adding this grease make sure to work the grease into the o-rings by moving the shaft in and out quickly. Then wipe off the excess grease so dirt won't stick to your shocks. This will help keep the friction low and performance high.
This is an important step that is over looked by most. Dirt is the worst thing for your shock o-rings and the shock shafts. Each time you come off the track clean your shocks with a soft brush. Make sure there is no dirt packed into the shock cup. Dirt that compacts into the shock cup allows the dirt to be forced into the shock cap bottom, under full compression, causing the o-rings to get dirty and abrasive. Cleaning your shocks each run with a soft brush will help your shocks stay better much longer and keep the performance high at all times.
Tuesday, May 31, 2011
Monday, May 30, 2011
Monday, May 16, 2011
Friday, May 6, 2011
Hey everyone! Just wanted to pass along an update from the Losi/TLR team here in
More than 120 different racers came out over the 6 months of racing, many recognizable names in Colorado Motorsports. Track organizer Terry Plummer had the following to say after the last race of the season:
"The list of names participating included racers and race car enthusiasts from all different forms of full size racing. Racers and Champions from Midgets, Sprint Cars, Legends, Modifieds, Supermodifieds, Street stocks, Late Models, Fig 8's, Trucks, Mini-sprints, Go-carts, Quarter Midgets and so on. It was an excellent opportunity to get to know and to rub elbows with the best of the local talent. What a tremendous group of individuals! What terrific competition!"
So now we move outdoors, starting tomorrow at the 1st race of the Colorado State R/C Pro Series, back at Colorado Fast Track in
Race #1 CFT, Colorado Springs, CO - May 7
Race #2 Rat Raceway, Denver, CO - June 4th
Race #4 Thunder Valley, Morrison, CO - July 16
Race #5 Dirt Works, Burlington, CO - Aug 7
Race #6 Dusty Trails,
The first "big" race of our season goes down May 20th-22nd, at the annual Manufacturers Cup at Dirt Works in
Feel free to stop by if you're in the area at any of these races - it's a great time of year to be racing in Colorado!
Sunday, February 6, 2011
Friday, February 4, 2011
TLR is proud to sponsor the 2011 winter series at OCRC Raceway. Robert Black always puts on great events for everyone so this was a perfect fit for TLR. TLR will be giving away two TLR 22’s, three XXX-SCT short course trucks and lots of door prizes. TLR would like to welcome everyone out to the series for some fun!!
Wednesday, February 2, 2011
Monday, January 24, 2011
(photo credit Ryan Gerrish)
TLR driver Jake Wright claimed his first big win of the 2011 season with a dominating performance at the Coppersate Crawloff held over the weekend just outside of Phoenix, Arizona. Jake drove his Xcelorin powered Mini Rock Crawler Pro to victory in the 1.9 class over an extremely talented field of drivers including SDS Customs driver John Riplinger and Arizona's own Doug Toney.